Day 1: Manizales to Finca del Cafe

RideWithGPS route details     ||     Distance: 25 miles   ||   Elevation gain: 3200'

Our bikepacking trip through the Zona Cafetera started in Manizales. Our friends at Colombia Eco Travel recommended we join in Cyclovia and then take the tram rather than navigate by bike out of town. We concur!!!

        ****PRO TIPS****
   1. Take the aerial tram to Villamaria. It's unique and way better than the alternative.
   2. Truly relish the first 8 km from Villamaria. One of the best gravel secteurs of the trip.
   3. Take snacks or lunch with you today. Few food options along the route.

Cyclovia is a phenomenal part of Colombian culture. Each Sunday, main avenues in each of the country's larger uban centers are closed down to cars and only open for bikes. Cylcovia is a big deal. Although organized to support Colombia's growing cycling culture, runners, walkers and other means of active transportation were also taking advantage of Cyclovia in Manizales. Here, roads are blocked to cars from 8:00 am - 12 noon. It was a wonderful way to set out on a bike trip!

Once you find the aerial tram, you'll need to purchase a ticket and the tram operators will help fold up seats in the tram cars for your bikes. Carrying a bike on the tram is very common, particularly during Cyclovia. You'll understand why even more once you hit the gravel road out of Villamaria! There's two stops, and the middle one is a transfer to a second tram line. Transfer at the first station and the you'll be pop out right in the middle of the town square in Villamaria.

On a Sunday afternoon, Villamaria is a busy and welcoming pueblo. The town square was out first introduction into pueblo life. The open town square was shaded with towering trees and colorful cafes lined the entire square. It seemed a little ridiculous to hang out when we'd only ridden 4 miles! But do it, Your next pueblo on par with this amount of color and culture is a day a half's ride away.

From town square, meander your way to the road on the southwest of town which turns to gravel/dirt in < 2 km from town. Generally, this road is downhill for its full 18 km length, but includes some heart-pumping rollers for the first 8 km. 

Take your time to enjoy the beautiful landscape, say hello to the locals climbing the road on their mountain bikes, and jump off to the side of the road to let the chivas pass.  We saw more mountain bikers climbing this road than any other traffic. As we would come to find out, the gravel roads in Colombia offer no-stress riding - other than the superchunk gravel and at times, greuling gradients! 

After riding through small fincas in awe at the steep hillsides dotted with the super dark green foilage of coffee plants, we rolled into Llanitos during what else...a Sunday futbol match. As we continued downihill past town, local traffic increased, filled with players for the next match of the day! The bars in town were crowded and there were way many more empty beer bottles on each table than the number of people sitting around it!

Drop from Llanitos to cross a river, turning right once across the bridge for a short but really steep climb. The remainder of the gravel road is downhill to the highway and a bit rougher as it follows the river valley. 

Once you hit the highway, turn left onto amazingly smooth pavement that's an incredible dichotomy to the surface over the last 18 km! After a short stretch of downhill, climb into the motorcylcle madness of Chinchina. This little town seemed very blue collar and a lot of local farmers were buzzing around town on Sunday afternoon. Continue on the main road through town with the flow of traffic and climb out of the opposite side of town to a pass with an overlook back over town. 

There is a short downhill before starting up the longest climb of the day. The traffic on this stretch of the road was some of the worst of our trip. The shoulder was minimal, realistically less than the width of the white line. Large trucks make the pull up this hill very slowly - though faster than you on a bike - and cars will pass whenever the mood strikes. Also, downhill traffic was using our lane frequently to pass.  

At the crest, take a deep exhale, this stretch has ended! As you pass under an overpass, turn right and then right again to circle back onto the bridge (yes, you are going the wrong direction of traffic but its only 300 meters). Climb this gravel road until you reach on the right a few kilometers up the road. There are multiple fincas to stay along this stretch and the gravel road continues into Santa Rosa de Cabal.

We highly recommend Finca del Cafe. We had made reservations ahead of time and were welcomed with a jugo de lulo. This amazigly refreshing beverage was the only the bggining of an incredibly welcoming overnight stay. Accomodations offer extravagant views, an infinity pool, gracious hosts, delicious dinner offerings and a very informative coffee farm tour.

     ****RECCOMENDATIONS****

1. In Manizales, Hostal Kumanday offers a bike-friendly, clean, budget accomodation. Don't expect many frills and the staff is helpful and speaks both Spanish and English fluently. Several large grocery stores and restaurants are within easy walking distance.

2. We cannot recommend Finca del Cafe enough, although this will be your most costly night of accommodations ($250-300.000 COP or $85-$100 USD). At no other point in our trip did the quiet night wrap around us after a beautfiul sunset over the surrounding countryside! As you'll come to appreciate, quietness is a luxury in Colombia! A coffee tour costs an additional $45.000 COP ($15 USD) and is well worth the experience - request Luis for your guide!

Cycling gravel roads in Colombia is a rich cultural experience. Here, confirming directions while a chivas passes.

Cycling past Sunday afternoon futbol in Llanitos in the Zona Cafetera

Llanitos, Colombia. Only accessible on bike via gravel road grinding!

At times, we were glad our bikepacking setup was light. The Zona Cafetera makes you earn dinner!

After cycling through and up from Chinchina (Colombia, Zona Cafetera)

When cycling in Zona Cafetera, stay at a local coffee farm (or finca)

Yes, the cycling is incredible but don't skip a coffee farm tour while in Colombia

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Yo Google: cycling, bike touring, bikepacking, travel by bike, gravel roads, Colombia, Zone Cafetera, coffee, farms, day by day, route summaries, Manizales, Finca del Cafe