D3: Exlporing Greater Filandia

RideWithGPS Details || Distance: 16.3 miles || Elevation gain: 2200'

***PRO TIPS***
1. Check with the folks at Bidea Hostel for the latest intel. They inspired this ride!
2. The area around Filandia is steep country. Be prepared for that both up and downhill!
3. Yield the right of way to local farmers bringing coffee to town via donkeys!

Based on a recommendation,drawn on a chalkboard map at Bidea Hostel, we headed north from Filandia toward La India. The tarmac quickly surrendered to the glorious Colombian gravel that we had become addicted to for its low traffic, landscape scenery, and cultural connection to the agricultural heritage of the paisa. This day was destined to be spectacular since we were expecting 85% of our pedal strokes to be along the bumpy surface, connecting small fincas. And we wouldn't be disappointed!

Rolling downhill, we quickly made it to La India - a tiny, tiny pueblo. The day's temperature seemed to be increasing at the same pace we were descending from Filandia's hilltop location. We stopped for a brief respite in the shade at the smallest town square of our trip.

While trying to find our turn, an older gentleman sauntered over and quickly surmized he was better served communicating with us in English. He was overwhelmingly welcoming and ecstatic to have us pass through his little village. If I had it to do over, I'd have bought him a beer and gotten more details of his story. In almost a week in Colombia, very broken English was all we could expect from anyone, yet this man...how does one in this tiny, tiny, remote place have such great English? We'll never know.

After he pointed us in the right direction, we dove off what appeared more of a dirt path than a "road" - and when I say dive, I mean straight off the face of the earth. The road porpoised downward through small coffee farms. The relatively flatter sections are claimed by local farmers and their extremely colorful casa cafeteras. We were blown away by the beauty and pride in these rural homes.

At times, the road was so steep we hopped off the bikes to save our disc brakes! One Strava segment showed a 0.2 mile stretch approaching 30% downgrade. We were glad we rode this route counter-clock-wise!

After crossing a drainage, we began to dig out of the deep hole and up to the town square in Ulloa. We were almost 2000' below Filandia and the heat was much more intense, particularly after another quad-busting short climb averaging 12%. We pulled up a chair in the shade in the center of Ulloa and had a Club Colombia Negra to cool down.

The climb back began in earnest straight from the town square - first on tarrmac and subsiding to gravel within 2 km. The grade porpoised somewhat although not as dramatically as on our descent. Steeper sections of road are identifiable by two cement paths in the "tire tracks" portion of the road. When your tires hit these, get ready to grind those quads!

With every pedal stroke the landscape opened up more as we continuned to gain elevation back towards Filandia. Once we regained the ridgeline, we stopped to celebrate a little, look back and then continued on to the mirador just outside of town. The view back over Filandia and to the mountains of the Los Nevados National Park was stunning and a perfect way to welcome us back for one more night in Filandia!