Cycling Route Summaries & RideWithGPS Links
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| My bikepacking setup for the Zona Cafetera |
Each brief summary includes a link for more details, "pro tips," recommendations and photos. Links to our actual routes on RideWithGPS are included in both places.
Note, that bike rental in Colombia is barely an option for a self-supported trip. Our friends at Colombia Eco Travel would be your best bet for renting bikes.
A few general notes about this trip:
- Yes, its safe. We had our preconceived notions too and even doubts when we turned down the first gravel road. And all of that was an incredible waste of brainpower. Be cognizant of your surroundings and ride confidently that Colombians want you to enjoy their country!
- Ride gravel. These backroads are incredible: amazing scenery and only motorbike traffic. You will enjoy them much more than tarmac. Yes, you will be slower and cover less ground, but you'll also have more of a cultural experience through the countryside and tiny pueblos.
- Our intent was to ride 3-4 hours most days to enjoy coffee in town squares, a bandaje paisa at lunch and arrive into town by mid-afternoon; the distances reflect that. See #4.
- Don't underestimate climbing in Colombia (on gravel) with weight on your bike. If you do, you will regret it. The elevation of the Zona Caferata is 4000-7000 ft (1200-2100 m) so acclimate and expect your fitness to be affected by the thinner air (and the rougher roads)!
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| Bike touring on gravel roads in Colombia |
Brief summary: The aerial tram from Manizales is a unique way to start a bike tour! From Villamaria, follow a gravel road (18 km total) towards Llanitos through beautiful rolling terrain and small coffee farms. Rejoin tarmac to climb up to and then past Chinchina for a stellar view back to the small city. Descend from the vista and begin a sustained climb. At the summit, pick up a gravel road towards Santa Rosa de Cabal. Our day ended at the glorious Finca del Cafe where we were welcomed with a refreshing glass of fruit juice, enjoyed a dip in the infinity pool and fueled with an incredible dinner. More trip notes and pics.
Day 2: Pereira to Filandia
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| Arrival in Filandia by bike, the heart of the Zona Cafetera |
Brief summary: After a morning tour of the coffee farm, we got a shuttle through the busy, industrial town of Pereira. This day is all tarmac and almost all uphill. The road shoulder is much better after reaching the 29/29Q junction. Turn right onto the Filandia-Armenia Road; the enjoyment factor grows exponentially on this section due to much lower traffic and beautiful pastoral landscapes. A final steep, steep ramp welcomes you to Filandia - an incredible pueblo with a beautiful town square and authentic feel, busy with local coffee trade from the surrounding area and welcoming to mostly South American tourists. Stay here a few days! More trip notes and pics.
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| Bike by colorful residences in the coffee region of Colombia |
Brief summary: On the schedule, this was a rest day. We took tarmac out of Filandia to La India and then dropped off the face of the earth, taking a gravel road/path through small fincas of coffee plantations and colorful casa cafeteras. After a snack and beer in the town square of Ulloa, we began the steady climb back to Filandia, ending our day with a quick sidetrip to the mirador just outside of town. There are tons of options to do similar rides. Our simple advice: prep your climbing muscles, pick a gravel road and ride; you won't be dissapointed! More trip notes and pics.
Day 4: Filandia to Cartago
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| Street markets abound in the Zona Cafetera |
Brief summary: Grab one last tinto before leaving the incredible Filandia. Backtrack a short stretch from yesterday as you leave town before before turning off a well-graded gravel road through more fincas with landscape views. At La Espinola, turn right at the large marta raton tree in the center of the pueblo. Ride on smooth tarmac with very little traffic to Quimbaya and grab lunch aroun the beautiful town square. Traffic picks up once you leave here while you descend and climb out of the La Vieja River valley. The final descent into the bustling industrial city of Cartago is fast. See our recommendations in more trip notes and pics.
Day 5: Catrago to Anserma
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| Paved roads in Colombia can be a dream after miles of gravel grinding |
Brief summary: Buckle up the cycling shoes for a big day in the saddle. Head west of town into the valle del cauca, home to the trips only flat roads and vast, vast sugarcane plantations. Detour through the unique town of La Virginia to ride alongside horse-drawn carts. Leaving town, enjoy the wide shoulder along the main road to Medellin. After 23 flat kms, turn off the highway and begin the first climb of the day through coffee and plantains to Belen de Umbria. Vendors with fresh fruit surround the beautiful town square, both very much welcome after the hot climb! The downhill out of town is spectacular. Turn right after crossing the Rio Risarlada and begin an arduous 15 km climb along a rough gravel road to Anserma - a working class, no frills city perched above coffee farms. If you do this climb, you have earned your Colombia cycling cred! More trip notes and pics.
Day 6: Anserma to Riosucio
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| Landscape view in Colombia from the seat of a bicycle |
Brief summary: 100% tarmac. Ride along a ridge with breathtaking vistas and then climb to the small pueblo of San Clemente. Continue climbing and crest the day's first summit a few kilometers past town. A rolling descent with dramatic scenery brings you to the start of the second climb. The summit is marked by a small roadside cafe. The drop into Riosucio is incredible and a fabulous way to end this 6-day tour of Zona Cafetera. Take one final lap around the town square before grabbing a coffee, snack or lunch and catching the chivas to Jardin (leaves at 3 pm)! More trip notes and pics.
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Yo Google: cycling, bike touring, bikepacking, travel by bike, gravel roads, Colombia, Zona Cafetera, coffee, farms, day by day, route summaries, Medellin, Finca del Cafe, Filandia, Anserma, Jardin
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